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작성자 최고관리자 작성일 26-11-06 15:43 조회 19 댓글 0본문
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JINAN, North Jeolla — Rocks aren’t usually the most exciting reason to travel.
After all, how interesting can something that just sits there really be?
Quite interesting, it turns out, at least in Jinan County, North Jeolla, where rocks alone are reason enough to make the journey south.
Over millions of years, nature has shaped Jinan's rocky landscape into something extraordinary, while people have found their own ways to add to its beauty, turning the region into a destination with stories.
At the heart of this story is Mount Mai, where two towering rock peaks provide the surreal backdrop for dozens of stone pagodas built by a single man over decades. The harmony between the mountain's natural beauty and human creations has helped make it an extraordinary destination, earning it three stars in the Michelin Green Guide, its highest rating, reserved for places worth a special journey.
And Mount Mai is hardly Jinan's only geological wonder. Recognizing the region's geological significance and remarkable natural landscapes, authorities designated a national geopark spanning 1,154.62 square kilometers (445.8 square miles) across Jinan and neighboring Muju County.
For many travelers, the journey to Jinan begins at Jeonju Station, a two-hour KTX ride from Seoul. From there, it's about an hour's drive to discover what makes this rocky landscape so special.
바다신2
You can also get there by bus, though the journey takes roughly two hours. Take bus No. 26 from Jeonju Station to Wooha, then transfer to bus No. 43.
Stone by stone, a mystery unfolds
Most mountains have familiar shapes. Mount Mai, in contrast, looks as though someone dropped two giant rocks into the middle of the landscape and left them there.
The peaks are no ordinary rocks. They are conglomerate rock, formed from gravel, sand and other sediments that accumulated in the area some 100 million years ago and gradually hardened over time.
Known as Sutmaibong (681 meters, or 2,235 feet) and Ammaibong (687 meters, or 2,255 feet), the two together resemble a pair of horse's ears, giving the mountain its name, Maisan, which literally means "Horse Ear Mountain."
Up close, the peaks look even stranger. Their rough surfaces resemble the moon's surface, honeycombed with cavities of varying sizes.
These holes, known as tafoni, form as weathering gradually weakens and hollows out the rock. While tafoni occur elsewhere, Mount Mai is particularly known for the scale of its formations.
The mountain is often called a "mystery" mountain, and one reason lies at Tapsa Temple beneath Ammaibong Peak.
Here, dozens of stone pagodas built from natural rock rise from the ground, surrounding the temple.
바다신2다운로드
Some barely reach a person's height, while others stand more than 15 meters tall.
Few even lean slightly to one side, looking as though a strong gust could send them tumbling. Yet they have stood still for more than a century, surviving storms and heavy rain. Look closely, and you'll see smaller rocks wedged between larger ones, with no cement or other binding materials holding them in place.
This remarkable resilience and its mysterious logic have fueled the belief that the mountain holds powerful spiritual energy, with some saying they can feel it at the site.
The Taoist hermit Yi Gap-ryong (1860-1957) is believed to have stacked these stones for three decades after receiving a spiritual message in a dream.
Among the most striking is Cheonjitap, or the "Heaven and Earth Pagoda," a pair of towering stone structures. The area where it sits is believed to hold some of the mountain's strongest spiritual energy, and visitors leave 500 won ($0.37) coins among the stones, hoping the energy will help their wishes come true.
Even on rainy days, visitors continue to flock to the temple, which has gained attention online in recent years for the wondrous sight of water cascading down the rocky peak beside its stone pagodas.
A short walk farther brings visitors to Eunsu Temple, nestled beneath Sutmaibong Peak. Here stands a Korean pear tree believed to be around 650 years old, yet still bearing fruit.
바다이야기게임
The mountain has one more mystery, though visitors must come in winter to see it.
During particularly cold weather, water left in bowls near the temples sometimes freezes upward into slender ice spikes, known as "reverse icicles." The unusual formations have long added to the mountain's mysterious reputation.
These unusual sights also draw attention from well beyond Korea.
Although the geopark does not separately track all foreign visitors, Jinan County recorded 11,200 foreign participants in guided tours in 2025 and another 7,977 so far in 2026.
Before or after wandering past Mount Mai, fuel up with grilled pork back ribs, one of Jinan's local specialties.
Along "Maisan Back Rib Alley," restaurants serve tender, flavorful ribs that pair particularly well with namul bibimbap, rice mixed with seasoned vegetables.
A hidden retreat between the rocks
Mount Mai isn't the only place in Jinan where people have found ways to make use of extraordinary rock formations.
About a 15-minute drive from Tapsa stands Suseonru, a tiny two-story pavilion tucked so neatly into a natural rock cavity that it almost looks as though the rocks grew around it.
Its unusual appearance may be familiar to viewers of Korean period dramas Netflix's "My Dearest" (2023) and "The Tale of Lady Ok" (2024), both of which used the site as a filming location.
파칭코하는법
Duck through a narrow opening to enter the pavilion. Wooden floors and small rooms make surprisingly good use of the limited space.
From inside, the view opens onto the upper reaches of the Seomjin River, winding past fields and mountains.
Four brothers of the Yeonan Song clan built the pavilion in 1686 to create a place where their aging father could rest, meet friends and enjoy the scenery.
Its name, Suseonru, roughly means "a place where immortals rest." The pavilion was designated a state Treasure in 2019.
Spend a few minutes sitting on its wooden floor, looking out over the river and surrounding greenery, and the brothers' choice makes perfect sense.
It's hard to imagine a better private hideaway.
While you can't spend the night there, visitors who want to enjoy the landscape longer can soon find affordable accommodation nearby.
A new visitor center for the Jinan-Muju National Geopark Center is scheduled to be completed in December, with dormitory-style accommodation set to open beside it. Lodging is expected to cost around 20,000 won per person, with rooms that accommodate four people and a total capacity of 20 guests. From the window, visitors can enjoy views of Mount Mai day and night.
Above the rocks, a whole new perspective
Rocks are impressive on their own, but add flowing water, and their charm more than doubles.
골드몽게임
At Unilam Banilam Valley, enormous rock cliffs tower over a valley where a stream winds past boulders and unusual rock formations. Among its striking formations is Daebulbawi, or Great Buddha Rock, which stands approximately 40 meters tall.
The cliffs are said to be so steep and the valley so deep that sunlight reaches parts of it for only half the day, giving the valley its name, which refers to clouds and half a day's sunlight.
Follow the valley along the gently flowing stream, and soon you'll reach the start of the trail leading to the suspension bridge, one of the best ways to take in the scenery.
Stretching 220 meters across the valley between two mountain cliffs and measuring 1.5 meters wide, the bridge offers panoramic views of surrounding forested mountains and rocky cliffs.
Getting there, however, requires some effort.
The walk takes about 20 minutes along a steep uphill trail. It's not particularly easy, but watching older visitors steadily make their way up, using walking sticks to keep their balance, provides a little encouragement to keep going.
Eventually, the bridge comes into view. A gentle breeze brushes past. Far below, the valley cuts through the mountains, while dense forests blanket the surrounding slopes.
Standing there, surrounded by mountains, trees and enormous rocks, it's hard not to feel small.
And for a moment, the worries that seemed so big before the climb feel a little smaller, too.
BY WOO JI-WON []
etimes fre
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